Board and Batten Calculator

For interior accent walls, 6–8 inch gaps are the most common. For exterior siding matching the traditional agricultural barn style that popularized this look, 8–12 inch gaps are the historical standard. If you're unsure, mock up your spacing with painter's tape on the wall before ordering any material — the scale difference between 6" and 10" spacing is significant in a real room.

Board and Batten Material Options — What to Use

The most important rule: use a different material standard for interior vs. exterior. MDF and paint-grade pine are excellent for dry interior walls but will fail on exterior applications where moisture is present. Cedar, PVC, or fiber cement are the appropriate choices for anything exposed to weather.

Worked Example — 12×8 Foot Interior Accent Wall

Interior vs. Exterior Board and Batten — Key Differences

Interior accent walls are the fastest-growing application. The most popular rooms are bedrooms (especially behind a bed as a headboard feature), dining rooms, entryways, and living rooms. Materials used are typically MDF, pine, or poplar, finished with 2 coats of paint. Installation is simpler because there's no weather barrier, flashing, or moisture management required. Cost typically runs $4–$12 per square foot installed.

Exterior siding is the original application — traditional board and batten was used on barns and farmhouses throughout the 19th century. Exterior projects require weather-resistant materials (cedar, fiber cement, PVC), a proper moisture barrier behind the siding, and flashing around all openings. The installation is more involved and typically runs $8–$20 per square foot installed, depending on material choice and wall complexity.

Step-by-Step Installation Process

Step 1 — Prep the wall. Remove outlet covers and existing trim. Fill holes and sand smooth. Mark all stud locations with a pencil line from floor to ceiling — you'll need these for furring strip attachment.

Step 2 — Install furring strips. Run 1×2 or 1×3 horizontal strips across the wall every 24–32 inches. Use a level and screw directly into studs. This creates a consistent nailing surface for all boards, regardless of stud spacing.

Step 3 — Install boards. Cut all boards to wall height. Start from one corner and work across. Use a scrap piece cut to your gap width as a spacer — hold it against the previous board to maintain perfect consistency. Check for plumb every 3–4 boards. Nail or screw through boards into furring strips.

Step 4 — Install battens. Center each batten over the gap between boards. It should overlap each board edge by at least ½". Nail or glue in place, then fill nail holes with wood filler.

Step 5 — Install trim. Add baseboard along the bottom and cap molding along the top. Miter outside corners at 45°. Caulk all gaps and seams.

Step 6 — Finish. Sand all filled holes smooth. Prime and paint (or stain and seal for natural wood finishes). Two coats of paint over a primer gives the cleanest result with pine and MDF.

Common Board and Batten Design Styles

• Classic white farmhouse — White painted boards and battens on a white wall. Still the most popular interior finish. Works in any room and pairs well with virtually every furniture style.
• Two-tone contrast — Dark boards or battens against a lighter wall color (or vice versa). A current favorite for modern and transitional interiors. The contrast emphasizes the texture without painting everything one color.
• Natural stained wood — Cedar or hardwood boards stained to show wood grain. Used in rustic, cabin, and Scandinavian interiors. Requires more finishing care than painted versions.
• Partial-height wainscoting — Board and batten applied only to the lower third of a wall, typically 36–42 inches high. Topped with a chair rail. A classic look for dining rooms and hallways.
• Horizontal board and batten — The boards run horizontally instead of vertically, with battens covering horizontal seams. A modern twist that makes rooms feel wider.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many boards do I need per linear foot of wall?
It depends on board width and spacing. With 6" boards and 8" spacing (the most common combination), you need roughly one board per linear foot. With wider boards or larger gaps, you need fewer per foot. Use the calculator above for an exact count with your specific dimensions.

Does the number of battens always equal boards minus one?
Yes — for a standard installation. Battens go between boards, so with 11 boards you have 10 gaps and therefore 10 battens. Some designs add battens at both outside edges of the wall as well, which would add 2 more battens to the count.

Do I need furring strips for an interior wall?
Not always. If your walls are plywood or OSB sheathed and you can hit a stud every 16 or 24 inches along your board layout, you can often nail directly to the sheathing. Furring strips are most useful when your board spacing doesn't align with stud spacing, or when you're installing over drywall with no accessible sheathing behind it.

What size batten should I use?
Battens should be wide enough to cover the gap between boards and overlap each board edge by at least ½". For an 8" gap, a 1×3 (actual 2.5") batten is the minimum — a 1×4 (actual 3.5") gives better coverage and looks more proportional. For gaps of 4–6 inches, a 1×2 or 1×3 works well.

How much extra material should I order?
Add 10% for interior projects and 15% for exterior projects. Exterior work involves more cuts around windows, doors, corners, and obstacles. Ordering short means a second trip to the lumber yard and risks getting material from a different batch with a slightly different color or grain.

All material quantities are estimates. Actual needs vary based on wall layout, door and window placement, waste from cuts, and installation method. Always purchase 10–15% extra material. Consult a contractor for exterior applications requiring weather barriers or structural modifications.